Triumph over Terroir

I HAVE A CONFESSION. Napa has always scared me. It’s the acres of vineyards and winemakers who talk in alchemical formulations of acidity and fermentation. But friends who make the place practically a second home urged me to go. “It’s beautiful,” they said. “You don’t have to know anything about wine. Learn about terroir.”

I thought they said terror. Sounded right, anyway.

I flew into Oakland and rented a car for the 45-minute drive north to Napa Valley. My goal was Yountville, just off Highway 29. I discovered right away that although Yountville seems like a California version of Brigadoon, its quiet streets belie world-class restaurants and lodgings.

I checked into the Villagio Inn & Spa, a Tuscany-type villa that sits right off the highway but still manages to seem miles away, with a waterway that courses through the middle of the grounds. My suite came with a fireplace (very unnecessary in the summer), a whirlpool bath and a complimentary bottle of Chardonnay. Okay, I admitted, it was a great start.

The valley also offers an array of choices for accommodations, if a Tuscan villa isn’t to your taste. The Villagio's sibling, Vintage Inn, is an intimate cluster of romantic French-inspired rooms. Hotels and lodges also line both Route 29 and the Silverado Trail, the alternative (and less crowded) north-south highway.

Restaurants throughout the valley are casually elegant, offering cuisine with French and Italian inspiration. The Wine Garden in Yountville embraces the wine culture by taking the concept of the “flight” and applying it to food, with a number of dishes in small portions that are perfect for sharing.

Thomas Keller’s The French Laundry in Yountville has been proclaimed by many critics to be the finest restaurant in the country. But Bouchon, Keller’s newer bistro, is easier to get into, and you’re likely to run into locals sampling the excellent fare and selections from its well-chosen wine list.

A word of caution to vegetarians: The wines in Napa have taken on a distinctly Californian identity, but the continental influence in the cuisine means plenty of duck, veal and lamb on the menus. Check ahead for options.

NAPA VALLEY WAS CREATED through violence, with lava eruptions and tectonic plates smashing into each other. The geological variations are mirrored in the towns that intersect the highway. Oakville and Rutherford have only a couple hundred residents each, while more upscale St. Helena (He-LEE-nah) has 10 times that number. Funky Calistoga draws those seeking nirvana in its mud baths and hot springs.

Why mention geology? I learned that’s where terroir starts, a philosophy that focuses on the web of life—a belief that wine begins with the earth, not in the vat. It revolves around cycles and seasons, and as soon as I recognized it, I saw it in the architecture, the food and, yes, the wine.

After all, wine reigns supreme here. But if you’re not up to discussing malolactic fermentation, it won’t matter. The people behind the bottle love what they do and want you to enjoy yourself.“I never thought California was like this,” said a couple from Florida at one of the wineries. “Everyone is so friendly and helpful.” I refrained from suggesting they stay away from Southern California freeways.

Domaine Chandon is the site of the first French-owned sparkling wine venture in the United States. Its méthode champenoise has created some of the finest sparkling wines in California, including Chandon Riche and Étoile Brut, as well as good varietals.

Silverado Vineyards sits high on a hill in the Stags Leap District, an area renowned for superb Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. Keeping true to that heritage, Silverado produces a great Cab and also celebrates its Sangiovese, a wine that’s catching on with wine drinkers across the country. Silverado is also starting library and vineyard tastings this summer.

Bell is a boutique winery whose founder, Anthony Bell, was at Beaulieu for 15 years. Today Bell produces Cabernet Sauvignon from a clone, known as Clone 6, developed by Bell. Syrah and Viognier, among other varietals, are also produced.

After an afternoon of tasting, I indulged in a river-stone massage at Villagio’s 3,500-square-foot spa. During the treatment, smooth stones are heated and placed at strategic pressure points on your back and shoulders. If the wine hasn’t relaxed you already, the massage will finish the job.

Should you get enough of wine and massages, head across the mountains between Napa and Sonoma and visit Safari West, a 400-acre preserve that takes guests in open trucks right through herds of antelope and zebras while curious ostriches try to snatch tidbits from guests’ backpacks.

On the drive back to Oakland, I realized I had done it. I had faced Napa, the vineyards and terroir. I was coming away with a newfound sense of peace and discovery—along with a few bottles of some really great wine.

If You Go
Villagio Inn is at 6481 Washington Street, Yountville, 707-944-8877; vintageestate.com. Rates begin at $235; suites at $325. Comprehensive information about wineries, accommodations and restaurants throughout Napa Valley can be found at napavalley.com. Safari West is located at 3115 Porter Creek Road, Santa Rosa, 800-616-2695; safariwest.com.

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