Tracking Nature

The Canadian Rockies are backdrop to a scenic rail excursion from Alberta to British Columbia.

“OFF TO THE LEFT, in the gorge. There’s a bear.” Those words come over the train’s speakers shortly after we embark on the Skeena rail journey from Jasper, Alberta, to Prince Rupert, British Columbia. And that up-close bear is just a sample of nature’s attractions on this trip through some of the world’s most sumptuous scenery.

Jasper, and its surrounding national park in the Canadian Rockies, is a favorite destination in all seasons, particularly in winter for skiing. And Prince Rupert is a coastal, tourist-friendly town becoming a popular cruise-ship port. The two are connected by the Skeena train, run by VIA Rail Canada and named for the river that follows the track much of the route. It’s a well-traveled section of Canada’s northern transcontinental rail line, completed in 1914.

The 725-mile ride takes 18 hours, broken into two segments so that, most of the year, you can traverse the entire way in daylight, traveling in either direction. You get to fully eyeball the surroundings, particularly if you choose Totem Class. That puts you in the dome car or the panorama dome car, with windows that sweep from side to top, allowing clear viewing and picture-taking of everything from streams to peaks. If you’re lucky, as we were, you’ll pass Mount Robson (at 12,972 feet the highest of the Canadian Rockies) on a day clear enough to see its snowy top.

Often, a sharp-eyed passenger will alert everyone with a call of “bear” or “moose.” But the train’s speed means you have to look sharp and fast or be frustrated. Fortunately, another opportunity will come along shortly.

The Skeena route is divided by a stop in Prince George, a northern British Columbia crossroads benefiting from its scenic surroundings and the overflow from the Alberta oil boom. It’s a burgeoning city with a diverse population of some 80,000 and a new university, but unless you spread your segments over more than the two days, you won’t have much time to check it out. My short exploration of downtown piqued my interest enough to warrant a return visit.

I had more time in the terminus cities, fortunately, but even a couple of days in each is insufficient. Prince Rupert offers all the activities of a Canadian coastal city, including in-season whale-watching. Jasper, an enchanting community surrounded by those majestic mountains, is the type of place that makes you think of moving there. If you just visit, however, try to get a room at the Sawridge Inn. Its beautiful, woodsy interior, brightened by a large skylight, is in the architectural tradition of the native peoples (the inn is owned by the Sawridge First Nation) yet has modern amenities like a spa, indoor pool and gourmet restaurant.

Most of us who enjoy train travel have probably heard it derided—because the tracks generally go through the down - trodden areas of cities—as showing “the backside” of the world. That certainly doesn’t apply to the Skeena train. The small towns and stations along the way enhance the journey with rustic charms that complement the vast areas where no humans dwell.

The 121⁄2-hour portion of the trip may sound daunting, but the time goes by surprisingly fast. For one thing, you’re served three meals (beverages are available at other times). And it’s easy to walk around in the train. I frequently used the steps in the dome car for a few minutes of exercise.

But don’t forget to take along books, magazines, sudoku and such. Laptops are good, too, although the Skeena train as yet doesn’t have a wireless ’Net connection. Even sensational views can pale, and the Skeena train, like other passenger carriers, has to defer to freights. So be prepared to be patient, and make sure your schedule —or as Canadians pronounce it, shedule —is flexible.

If You Go

Several airlines fly to Edmonton. From there, you can ride VIA Rail to Jasper. The Skeena train leaves three times a week from both Jasper and Prince Rupert, with fare discounts for seniors and students. 888-VIA-RAIL; viarail.ca.

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